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The Wave
The smell of salty air, cool and inviting, reached her nostrils as she stepped onto the cold sand. She watches over the endless grey day, waiting for maybe a glimpse of the shining sun to peek out from its domain behind the clouds. After a few silent minutes, nothing seems to come. Sighing with defeat, she starts to slip her shoes back on. But suddenly, an inviting ray of sunlight sneaks its way out of the clouds. Little by little, the once grey day turns into a perfect one.
Grinning like a hyena, she once again zips up the slippery wet suit, putting it on as a second skin. Running, almost sprinting, to the bike rack, she pulls off her board in a snap, brandishing it to the world like a sword. A smirk lights her face as she walks back over to the sand, now holding her board with tender care, almost lovingly, as if it was her own child. Slipping off her beat up flip-flops, she walks down the empty beach, sand crunching underneath her feet. The almost faint smell before ravages her senses, as she gets closer and closer to the turbulent ocean.
Tying her guard to her ankle with a flourish, she dives into the waves with the grace of a dolphin. Tugging the board behind her, she paddles repeatedly over the crashing waves, then climbs onto the turquoise board.
Waiting for the perfect wave to come, she once again breathes in the hearty smell of the sea, the salt tickling her nose. The water is relentless, never crashing at the right time, pushing its strength too soon. She sighs in frustration, slapping the water with the palm of her hand. The patience beginning to wane, she pouts, but stays on the board, staying faithful.
All too soon, the water surges into the most perfect shape she has ever seen that morning. Foaming and frothing with white at the tip, it is the best wave, and she wants to tame it. Pumping her hands through the water with ferocity and excitement, she pushes her board to the top. A grin spreading across her face, she crouches on her board, prepared to ride. As the crystalline wave curls over, she stands up onto her board, full fledged laughing with the happiness of succeeding. Crouching her legs, she prepares to ride the moving wave. As the wave moves closer and closer to the still empty beach with increasing speed, she prepares to ride it out. Nearing the beach, however, the increasing momentum throws her off the board, sending her head first into the swirling water.
Submerged in the lukewarm water, she giggled at the almost-success of the ride. Popping up from the now-calm water, she shakes her head, splattering drops of water everywhere. Swimming over to the board, she hoists herself onto it, sitting cross-legged. Gazing up at the deep blue sky, she marvels at the beauty of the world around her. Tearing her eyes away from the view, she turns her board around and heads back to shore. Finally planting her feet onto the sand, she smirks, and turns around and goes back into the water.