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Life Inside The Wave
That morning I left, up bright and early.
I grabbed all the boards, and left in a hurry.
Hopped on the freeway, passed cars with leeway.
Cop pulled me over and asked if it was a beach day.
I answered yes, he let me go.
I now sped up and headed to San Elijo.
It was a Tuesday morning, few boards in sight.
I ran down to the water and entered with might.
The waves were big, and the current was strong, but my board and I kept paddling along.
I saw a wave arise from the distance, I tried to catch it, but darn I missed it.
I waited and waited for the one to come, and then I saw it, glistening in the sun.
Big and blue, towering in height, I could not believe what was in my sight.
I paddled hard so it would be mine,
as I popped to my feet it continued to climb.
I rode down the face and I knew it was time.
I saw the barrel, headed right to it,
and when I entered, I was loving the blueness.
Water below me, sea overhead,
I shot right out, for the wave was dead.
As I walked towards the shore I spotted a kite,
And said to myself, that was the best ride of my life.
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I was inspired to write this by the wave I dream to ride.